When you hover your cursor over the squares and look at the k value in the info panel, you will see that it starts at 100% black in the first square, and each square decreases in darkness by 1%. If you look at my test chart, the first 11 gray swatches start at black and decrease in lightness by 1% in each square. I prefer to use the grayscale info pallet in 8 bit to measure my gray values, simply because it works on a scale of 1-100, making it simple to create gray swatches with incremental changes in value. If you are creating your own test chart, there are a number of ways you can do this. Click on the other eyedropper icon and select grayscale from the drop down menu. In the info pallet, click on one of the eye dropper icons and select RGB color from the drop down menu. By using a simple black and white test chart, you can see how your particular printer and paper handle the white and black areas of your pint and you can edit your picture to maximize the available dynamic range of your printer: And if that’s not bad enough, this “black point” and “white point” will be different for ever printer/paper combination!įortunately, there is a simple solution to this problem. The same is true with white – every printer has a point where white simply becomes “paper white” and you can no longer see any ink at all. As the printer lays down ink to create your black tones, there will be a point at which you can no longer differentiate the detail in those blacks anymore. The problem is that, when printing, the printer usually hits the limitations of its dynamic range long before our eye (and camera, and monitor) stops differentiating detail. In a black and white photograph you want to make full use of the entire dynamic range. The dynamic range is the range of tones, from the blackest black to the whitest white in an image. The secret to a good black and white print is controlling the dynamic range.
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